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vanoldschool



Joined: 18 Jul 2009
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:12 pm    Post subject: please post step by step Reply with quote

Hello, great programs i have read up on, I do understand my dfx pretty good... I think, However Can someone please post a Gold Program for Rings thats starts off with 1. go to C&J Program, etc etc, I have played with the EEPROM SETIINGS Based off of everyones various Programs, but I am not having a warm fuzzy about it, I just want to be abler to turn on my detector, go to a saved Gold Ring Program and Hit the Soccerfields, thanks in advance, you all rock!
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tr snyper



Joined: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 1753

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to dig rings, 1 turn the detector on. 2 kick tr synper in the a**. 3 all you need to do to find a gold ring in a soccer field is to hunt in the relic mode. Being a soccer field I am assuming the rings aren't very deep. So in the relic mode set your detectors AC around 72 the DC around 45 and the PAG at 3. If this ground balances well and there is no EMI and it's stable then start your tweeks from those power settings. The relic mode will hit gold with no problems. You have to be very patient and YOU HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO DIG ALL VDI NUMBERS down to 10. Digging all VDI numbers is better advice then any tweek ever will produce. Personally I dig them to 0 because the ground or iron trash can skew the VDI down along with dry or wet ground. I hunt mine out of the coorelate mode to get a good VDI display. But really there is no special way needed to go about the rings. They hit solid but they just don't VDI very high. I think I have only seen one gold ring in the 60's and I believe it had silver in it for color. Most big rings don't get out of the 40's and small rings may never get above the 20's. So when or if you walk away from what you think may be a pulltab, it may very well have been a gold ring you left as a pulltab. Don't think that you can't find them. It's that they are not an abundant land find. They aren't lost as much on land as they are in the water. Unless you are targeting an area where you know a ring was lost. In that case just keep chipping away at every pulltab and eventually you will pull the ring out. Go slow, overlap and don't let the coil leave the ground. Unless to dig. After you search the area hit it again at 90 degrees. Rings will lay at an angle much more then coins do because roots can tug on them or there design alone may keep it from laying flat like a cross ring does. So some angles are better then other on rings laying on a slant. All you have to do is lay a ring on the ground and listen to how hard it hits. If you do and you don't get a solid hit. Pick it up and pinpoint under where the ring was because you could be testing it over a nail the detector is trying to disc out. Move to the side and try again. Just make sure you do a proper air/ground balance and keep holding that ground balance. Before you know it you will be posting a gold ring. Sometimes they just take time.

From Jan to around mid April I only land hunt. From April through Nov I mostly water hunt (85% water hunt) then I'll finish hard through Dec on serious land hunting over ground I've scouted that spring. Over the year I will be in the mid sometimes higher double digits with gold rings. Often several in one day alone. But from all of the rings last year only 1 gold ring and about 5 silvers came off of the land! And that doesn't surprise me one bit. It's the reason I shut the land detecting down through the summer. Ticks, chiggers and misquitoes have a little to do with this and I avoid the thickest of the brush.

Over time you will get to know your detector well and realize if you can hit a small button, pulltab or nickel you can hit that ring just as easy.
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Groundsnooper



Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Posts: 166
Location: Ohio West Central

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a great response TR, it is definitely dedication to find them. Thanks for sharing your process!
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tr snyper



Joined: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 1753

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snooper, that's all it really is. If you want to find something you have to make the choice either to dig the easy (known) targets or decide that you are patient enough and "work" for it. And somethtimes that is what it is, it's a lot of digging or a lot of work. If someone can get discouraged and quit then you don't have the genes or the (bug) for treasure hunting. Look at archeologists? They research until they are certain to a high degree that they are over a site. They will dig relentlessly with hope to find something. And more often then not they will find something. It may not be the missing link but they are rarely left empty handed. They are very dedicated. Greedy and sellfish at times, but dedicated. Although I shouldn't say that if some believes they are doing the right thing or not, but not everyone is the same so that is just an opinion of mine.

Here's a couple of tips to help with the massive digging that's needed along with patience that takes some time out of the digging and searching process. The site once trained militias ???

1) Dig everything if your site has great potential. And not just the low value VDI targets. Take out medium to large iron also to clear the way for a 90 degree sweep or return hunt. Many of my oldest relics and coins came after a site would normally be called (cleaned out). Most other hunter eithers gave up in there or would have if they ever had the chance in my private sites.

In one of my all time oldest productive sites, I dug out a round gear/wheel that was iron, 8" in diameter, 2" wide and about 14" down. I know the site was a saw mill so I can date that to the late 1700's. After I dug it I checked the hole, found no other metal targets and moved on. Several weeks later when I hunted the site again I hit a faint signal on the edge of that iron wheels/gears hole I dug out. It VDI solid in the upper 20's and DC Phased a clear + number before the ground over took it into the negative. I swept twice more with the same + to - Phase and knew there was non-iron down there. About 6" down in the edge of the wheels hole was an 1830's 5 cent piece. When you dig a massive hole you disturb the grounds electromagnativity capabilities since it can't carry the signal, it seems to absorb and distort them in the side of a hole. When the hole is buried and the ground settles and if it has rained the ground compacts back down and a signal can penetrate again. I don't know how many times I've dug something that was "in or near the hole of a previous find". I'm sure I'm not the only one who has ever dug a coin near an old hole and wondered why you didn't find it when the first target was dug? Especially when you are the one who dug that first hole? If you initially got a strong + signal and even bars then were surprived that you dug a piece of large iron, you may be more surprised if at that point you were to take a shovel and dig that hole out slightly deeper and open the sides up you just may throw that + target up on the surface the detector "did" hit but lost to the iron target in the hole or lost it in the ground.

2) If allowed dig with a shovel and not a hand shovel or knife.

Of coarse if you are in someones yard you don't want to leave land mines or tear their grass apart but shovel digging is much more productive in a couple of ways. And if you use the right digging tool you can still dig with a shovel and cut a plug like a knife and repair the hole just the same.

When I hit a target I want it out on the first shot. I'll dig a 10" to 12" plug in almost every situation except a groomed yard. Then if that's the case I will dig an 8" hole but pull out a 12" deep plug. It's a plus when you can pull the target on the first shot. It saves times and it doesn't wear you out having to be on your knees any longer then needed. A big plug will also open up deeper targets that may have been in that hole and now there may only be an inch or two of dirt allowing you to hit that second out of reach target from the surface. It's in a sense shaving a foot of dirt off the surface for you. Don't expect that there is always a second target. But on the times that there are they are the oldest targets in the site. So take advantage of an open hole. You don't lose the signal being absorbed on deep targets with 1 or 2 inches of dirt. You mostly lose the side targets to the signal being absorbed. So sweep the hole but still pinpoint the sides even if the detector doesn't hit something. You won't believe what gets masked to an absorbed signal.

Multiple targets and/or pocket drops.

We have all found pocket drops from kids playing or teens making out on the sides of a lake or a hill Rolling Eyes . Being I grew up as a healthy young man as I'm sure the rest of you were, with the exception of the women on here who are probably shaking their heads at me right now, we all know in the heat of our young minds moment the last thing we were thinking about was losing or pocket change Shocked . Hell we didn't figure that out until we got older and started losing our keys and there were some angry parents when we got stuck out in the woods with no way to get back home. It's bad enough you lost your change, you can't make any excuse for who you were with, where you were at and what the heck were you doing out THERE!!! No cell phones either back then. This may seem like I'm of track and this is a forum of it's own but it's a way to realize why coins can be SOOO grouped together and never have been seen on the surface when lost. And it directly leads to detecting and not getting "most" of that pocket drop but every coin dropped at that youthful blunder of a moment Confused .

When you hit those pocket drops it's much faster and more productive to realize by the second or third coin not to dig them out one by one but just to dig the 14" area out (or whatever size) then pick the coins off the surface instead of one by one in the hole. And you should be able to tell there are more then just a coin or two by the width of the pinpoint footprint. This gets rid of any chance to losing one to the side of a hole from the ground absorbing your signal. Nothing is worst on a coil then trying to see into a bunch of holes disupting the grounds electromagnetic foot print. Especially when there is a higher chance of a coin on edge from stirring the soil around.

I've lived through this large coin dump and never cleared it until I finally said enough of digging 5 or 6 at a time then come back and pull 3 then rehunt it and dig 7 over the same dirt filled holes.

Across a field from the saw mill site sits a colonial church from the 1760's. To the north of the church is the graveyard, the east a main road, the west a field and the south is a field with a slight slope leading to the water to the mill. In total with no lieing, there must have been over 50 Indian Pennies come out in the last year alone with a lot of older Large and Half cents and colonial coppers with a crazy mix of other denomination of coins, tokens, kids iron and lead toys etc. I can't describe more on why it's so damn coin and relic infested with out giving the site up and for obvious reasons I'm not ready to do this right now. But one spot is a story in its self. We call this area the tribe from the crazy amount of Indian pennies there. The second to last dig in there I myself dug 7 Indians in a 3 foot area where I must have taken 12-15 previously? I couldn't figure how I could miss multiple Indians every time after the previous hunt and find more on the return??? I have to hunt this with a partner because he is the one who obtained permission as it's his relatives property and over sight of the church in there so I had to teach him detecting 101, I let him use an inferior other brand detector. It's really a no brainer for me. Half of something is better then all of nothing Idea. And saying he finds half isn't close to reality Wink. The site covers several acres so we aren't bumping into each other. We keep our own finds and both agreed that if one were to hit a hot spot the other is to back off of that area until we give up on it. Another no brainer for me, and even his idea when he started to kill the mercs at the waters edge. Mercs are the last thing I'm thinking when I'm in there but to a new comer digging 4 or 5 old mercs ('20's-'30's) in a few hours isn't bad. So when I dug 7 Indians over the same circle I called that spot. Now here's why I built up to this and why I bring up dig the area for the group and don't shoot for them 1 by 1. I've been picking them 1 by 1 and finally realized why? The majority are from the 1860's and they contain nickel. They don't hit well. Also the area is where the ground goes from flat and starts to slope down so dirt is slowly covering them. Then to make matters worse there is a huge Cedar tree at the beginning of the slope where the tree leans to about 2 o'clock for around 5 feet then turns up straight and there are roots through out that little grouping also causing problems on the coil for penetrating correctly and drifting the threshold and slowing the tracking from balancing properly. Finally my whole point. After thinking what must be causing me from clearing it and digging more I realized and see from a distant I've dug a slight depression in the soil there over the last several hunts from tossing dirt and filling in 80% of the dirt back. This time I said I'm digging it out!!! Period!!! I cranked up a hot Mixed Mode setting and sure enough got new hits. I pinpointed the circle, turned the detector off and dug a foot of dirt down one foot passed the circle I pinpointed and cut all of the roots out until I removed a foot down, almost 6 feet in an oval shape down hill. I turned the detector back on, lowered the setting stable and the hole started beeping like a trashy ball field. My buddy looked over and saw this pile of dirt I put on a tarp and thought I hit a deep cache and came over to watch. I asked him to sweep it and he hit targets like crazy Wink . I started to dig the Indians out one by one until there were no more signals in there. With the Indians came large and half cents too. Finally when it got quite and I was ready to fill the hole I swept over the dug dirt and it lit right up! Buy the time I was done I took out 14 Indians from the hole, 2 half cents, 3 large cents one being a 1790's flowing hair and a Jersey Colonial Copper. The dirt pile gave up 4 Indians, 2 seated dimes, a half dime and a Flying Eagle Cent. Not one coin dated past 1863 Shocked . I started to dig around to see signs of a broken (cache) mason jar but I didn't find any jar fragments. I found whiskey and beer bottles, I screened out a smoking pipe (non Indian), a single ivory die from a set of dice and pieces of Indian pottery (another story there). I told him I would like to come again and dig and screen it further around and deeper because I think more silver should have come up but in the hole also not the surface since there was that many Indians the ratio of coin mix indicates there should be more silver then that in the area.

But after all that, the bottom line was I decided on a plan of attack, I thought I finally figured out why it was nickel and dime'ing me but seemed to give up more and not less as I went along and I stuck with it. The hole was settling and getting deeper in the ground. But that's dedication and not being affraid to work for it. The whole thing played out over about 3 hours for me to dig over a half a cubic yard of dirt cutting roots and killing my poor back for what I thought was going to be a big hand full of Indians with the hope of other coins. I hoped right but the next day when I was sore as he** I didn't really seem to mind. Indians aren't all that valueable but the soil is kind on them here with the exception of the (nickle/copper) Indians that don't fair so well but when there were so many and begining at the 1859 time frame all I kept thinking was the 1877 and I'm in prime area for hitting one. At the time, being so many I never checked the dates at first I just kept pulling them. They were all out of the Philadelphia Mint which is close (50 miles away) and I was fortunate enough in the past to have found the 1864 L Indian so to me I was sure the 1877 is well with in reason and reach and I played the odds for it. I never thought the hoard may actually "pre date" 1877 though Confused . Not that I am complaining because there were certainly many others that passed that date from a different drop. This just wasn't any old drop something happened there.

A historian friend and I think we have it figured out and all clues make sense. This year I hope to uncover the rest and piece together what hapened there. I'm sure we will at the least dig some more incredible finds out of there regardless to what can be proved or not! We do know Militias once trained on the site.
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Groundsnooper



Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Posts: 166
Location: Ohio West Central

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rings that I have found ( which isn't a hoard by any means) were only found because I opted to dig the low vdi's.
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petercummins89
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 6:07 am    Post subject: Hello Reply with quote

A religious ring has references to Jesus, crosses, or bible verses. A non-religious purity ring generally has the motto "True Love Waits" and should be worn with just as much pride as a religious ring. A good program for this is "The Silver Ring Thing".
Another option is to walk around the mall and look for different jewelry stores. Look around at every store that you go to - you can "adapt" any silver ring into a purity ring. If you really like one silver ring, even if it doesn't say "True Love Waits," it means something to you and can be used to symbolize your promise. Pick a purity ring that fits your personality and means something to you. This will make it very easy to find rings instead of window shopping for rings that might be out of your price range. You will be surprised that the rings aren't that expensive, but there are some high-end ones as well. Decide whether you are going to splurge or go for a moderate price. Also, how will you wear the ring? Are you purchasing a chain to wear it on around your neck, or are you wearing it on your finger? If you have a ring that already fits your ring finger, you can print out a ring sizing chart and line it up with the right circle. If you can, try on the ring. Any jeweler or jewelry store will be able to help you size a ring. If you want, you can wear your ring on a necklace chain.
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